One of the most impressive shows all week – perhaps no surprises there – Thom Browne created an icy set mimicking a frozen-over pond. The atmosphere was almost as astounding as the collection with every inch of the room covered with corresponding fabrics – predominantly all shades of grey, perhaps even fifty (cough). The expected sharp tailored pieces were updated with a sea of embellishments; think everything from clusters of buttons to repeat suit and lace suiting loops.

Thom Browne can seem, at times, a clinical designer. His clothes are so thoroughly conceptual that they may come across as cool to the touch. Ironically, this season radiated warmth. That was ironic because Browne put a chill in the air at his catwalk show this evening, making his set look like a frozen-over lake, and sending the models out on platforms—treacherous ones, it must be said—that mocked the look of ice skate blades. The heat was generated, though, by the craft in this collection. If you want to feel Thom Browne—to comprehend what makes him tick—you must attend to the care he’s put into his clothes. This collection had so much care it felt unusually intimate.

Related: New York Fashion Week | Fall Winter 2017 

Source: FB/THOMBROWNE.newyork
Courtesy of Thom Browne